Monday, February 27, 2017

Pondicherry

“Trip to Auroville, Pondicherry”
May 2007


It was my calling to an annual trip to Tirupati. That year we decided to explore a bit of Pondicherry post our visit to Tirupati.

 As soon as we reached Chennai late in the evening, we somehow managed to spend the night at a Hotel near the Beach, the famous Marina Beach. The Hotel though sounded very royal but failed to service the bare minimum with regards to hygiene and other basic necessities. We being hardcore carnivores, we just cannot survive without non-vegetarian food and after spending a day and a half of vegetarian food at Tirupati we were craving for some chicken delicacies cooked the Chettinad way. We washed up quickly and couldn’t resist our temptation for dinner, thus ordered for some Chicken Chettinad, Appams , Sambar etc. Our wait in the Dining Hall turned out to be a disaster as the Chicken was stale and the cuisine was far away then the typical Chettinad style. We went to bed empty stomach only to find that there were tiny cockroaches under the pillows. While trying to get rid of the cockroaches we discovered more cockroaches under the telephone set, inside the almirah and also in the washroom. We screamed at the Hotel manager as it was disgusting to find the rooms in such a state inspite of the exhorbitant room rates.

   The manager allotted us another room with a better view and fresh supply for us to spend the night. We managed to get a good sleep that night as we were pretty tired through out the day and had a long day the day after.

Our second day at Chennai, and we were ready to kick start the day. We took a car on hire and decided to drive down to Pondy ourselves. It was a very refreshing drive as the road, the ECR was quite good and the sea continuously followed us on the left hand side like a guide, till we reached our destination, Pondicherry. The stream of blue sea with it’s shades of white, blue, light blue, dark blue merged with the sky which seemed to be infinite….

It was a lovely drive through the outskirts of Chennai with abundant greenery. We reached Pondy at almost 12 noon and decided to do some sight seeing. We first hit Aurobindo Ashram, Rishi Aurobindo’s house, unfortunately we couldn’t enter, as it was time for lunch at the Aashram. We next went to Auroville, which has the famous Globe, Matri Mandir, we narrowly missed the visit as it closes by 12 noon. We were extremely disappointed as everything was turning out to be a disaster. Over and above that the sweltering heat in the month of May made us even more restless and cranky. To quench thirst I ordered for a refreshing lemonade at one of the Café’s and started conversing with the young man who seemed like the owner. The place was extremely serene, very basic and amidst nature with no sign of any synthetic or artificial interference . I had an extremely interesting conversation about Auroville with the owner, their rigid rules and regulations. Seeing my interest on Auroville, he tried to lend a helping hand, he called up all the hotels to check availability..Inspite of prior reservations for room, the friendly Café owner helped us with a stay. We were very excited and went out and checked that place. It was like love at first sight……the resort was owned by a French woman, it looked like a huge jungle spanning across acres of land with independent rooms, scattered across. Our room was surrounded by greenery all around, everything was solar powered, handmade soaps, shampoos and toileteries. Curtains, bedsheets and other linens were all hand made at the Ashram. Furniture, stationaries etc. all handmade at the Ashram by the localites…. It had an open air restaurant under huge banyan trees with aerial roots dangling from above and giving a feel of a very natural habitat left on it’s own. Rattan cane chairs and tables strewn here and there with lamps hanging from the branches of the trees. Stone figures of Ganesha, Krishna and various other deities and animals handcrafted by local artisans were strategically placed all over the dining area under the canopy. Food was prepared and served by the French woman herself along with the cook to assist. We must have never tasted such sumptuous Vegetarian affair before. Food that was served looked so nutritious and simple yet so tasty and refreshing. A special mention to the garage which was at the entrance of the resort was filled with bicycles and scooters. To our utter surprise, the localites use either bicycles, scooters or battery operated cars which is environment friendly. In an endeavor to conserve energy and save the planet, Auroville has taken up nature friendly ways and means of living. We rushed for a quick shower followed by an elaborate lunch at the cafetaria. We were eagerly waiting to explore the interesting place. I opted for a bicycle while Anindya settled for a scooter, so that we could explore the place seamlessly with ease. I clearly remember of a stretch of road  smelling of freshly baked breads and cakes, to our utter surprise, we discovered a huge French Bakery, again manned and owned by the localites using all organic and natural ingredients. We bought an array of breads, pastries, patties, cakes and many more mouth watering confectionaries. Our next halt was at the local museum which had a good collection of sculptures from the Pallava and the Chola dynasty. It had quite a few sculptures and images of various forms of Buddhas. local market  

The French colony
Puducherry is dotted with Colonial building, residences with typical French and Portuguese architecture, houses with huge yellow or blue walls outlined with white borders, people of every age, country, religion cycling down the street in an organized manner and working their way either to school or work. People here seem to be happy with their basics and are craving more for their spiritual quotient, knowledge and humanistic values. This is a place where people from every country, creed, religion and age stay harmoniously and contributing constructively towards oneself and the society. 

Aurobindo Ashramam
One of the greatest hero of modern day India, who had started it all at Pondicherry, Sri Aurobindo decided to settle here after he quit politics and awakened to his mission for a spiritual calling. The main building of Aurobindo Ashram has a tree shaped courtyard which houses the Samadhi of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother. The Samadhis have the physical remains of the Sri aurobindo and The Mother and are decked with flower and incense sticks. During the visiting hours, people are often seen sitting around the Samadhi and meditate. The ashram also houses a little museum, Printing press, Canteen for the staff, bakery, candle factory and many more self-sustaining initiatives.

Matri Mandir
One of the most serene place that I have ever been to is, The Matri Mandir is considered to be The Soul of Auroville. This Golden glittering globe was not yet open for the tourist, we were just about fortunate as we managed to get an entry within the globe due to sheer luck. A gentleman, who was a localite and took care of the huge gardens of Matrimandir guided us to the Matrimandir after crisscrossing several gardens brimming with flowers, fruits and vegetables of various kinds. This immense globe which was shiny from every side had twelve petals made out of terracotta bricks. Every petal is as big as a meditation room with every petal having a different colour theme inside. The petal with a blue interior had blue walls and blue cushions, one could meditate inside the blue room and experience certain feelings, so was meditating inside the red room and the green room. The Meditation Hall at the centre of the globe was huge, as we entered the globe, we were offered a pair of white socks to don and explore. The theme of the central meditation hall was white with a huge crystal seated at the centre of the hall. Right above the crystal was an opening through which sunlight falls directly on the globe and offers a prism like light within the meditation hall. It was a beautiful experience meditating within the white central hall, which exuded a sense of purity, peace and solace. We stepped out of the Matri mandir speechless, as if in a state of trance. We thanked the gentleman for offering us with a lifetime of an experience.

Good life
Every tourist venturing in Puducherry is assured to have a good time due to a variety of options available for every tourist. The beach is lined by a few luxury hotels like the Promenade and likes similarly it also houses dormitories and low budget hotels to suit every pocket. Hidesign one of the leading leather showroom has it’s pioneer store in Pondicherry. Dilip Kapoor, who had started with leather accessories as a hobby, had initiated his entrepreneurial journey from Pondicherry, is now doing serious business worldwide.

Food at Puducherry
Puducherry has a mix of cuisines to offer to the hungry and thirsty wanderer. Puducherry is high on French culture which is very vivid in it’s spread of french styled restaurants. Most of the French eateries get filled by 7.30pm mostly by foreign tourists, as they prefer having early dinners. Most of the eateries in Pondy have very interesting seating arrangements, like open air seating, terrace seating, seating arrangements under the tree, an old bunglow partially renovated and converted to a restaurant which gives a feel of heritage. Most of the eateries have an earthy feel with furniture mostly locally made out of cane, bamboo or wood. Colourful cushions, mats and linen spread carelessly over the furniture with a set of efficient staff promptly serving your order. The town sleeps early and wakes up very ealy in the morning to classical tamil song from almost every tamil household while the lady of the house is already busy doing Kollam in the courtyard after her morning rituals and household chores.
 We were in trance after having Chettinad food at Appachi. It took us a while hunting for the place, as I had been to Appachi almost a decade back with my mother, uncle and aunt during one of my visits to Pondicherry. The sumptuous south indian food, not only filled our satiety but also our souls. We were served by a host of caring people dressed in local attire. Our copper wares were brimming with lip smacking food. Even before we could finish a bowl of food, three more dishes were served and they felt obliged serving us more. Such hospitality is rarely found, Thus the food travelled to our stomach through our heart.

Beach at Pondicherry
Unlike other beaches in India, the beach at Pondy is extremely clean with civilians taking good care of their surroundings. We hit the promenade beach at night for a stroll post our dinner. The lovely summer breeze could put anybody to sleep within a moment. After a while we sat in our car, parked it on one side, rolled the windows down and enjoyed a strong cup of coffee hearing the waves lightly lashing against the coast.One of the best way to seal a day which was quite momentful.

Good life
Every tourist venturing in Puducherry is assured to have a good time due to a variety of options available for every tourist. The beach is lined by a few luxury hotels like the Promenade and likes similarly it also houses dormitories and low budget hotels to suit every pocket. Hidesign one of the leading leather showroom has it’s pioneer store in Pondicherry. Dilip Kapoor, who had started with leather accessories as a hobby, had initiated his entrepreneurial journey from Pondicherry, is now doing serious business worldwide.




Saturday, February 25, 2017

Gamcha

Gamcha – The pride of Bengal
The pride of a quintessential bangali is a Gamcha.
Gamcha, a typical red colour, pure cotton, checkered cloth, which is generally handed over from one generation to another with elan. Every Bengali visiting Puri during the summer vacation comes back with a dozen gamchas as souvenirs to be gifted to family and friends with pride.
Every balcony or a terrace in north Kolkata in the afternoon is adorned with a lineup of gamchas of various hues and sizes. A little boy in kolkata is born with a gamcha wound delicately around him. On a hot and sunny Sunday, the men of the house laze around the home in their most comfortable attire, the gamcha and nothing else(what in case of a wardrobe malfunction??). The fabric provides unmatched natural air condition and with repeated use, gets much softer and cosier. The boy reaches puberty adorned in a gamcha and enters manhood with pride. This little piece of asset has borne the test of time.
Multiple uses of a gamcha
Any and every traditional occasion in a Bangali household demands a gamcha. A Bengali wedding, which is a much sought after wedding amongst the remaining mainly because of the several customs like Subho drishti, where the bride covers her eyes with two betel leaves while entering the chadnatala(arena where the marriage takes place). Post the exchange of garlands one end of the bride’s saree is tied to the groom’s dhoti with lo and behold, a gamcha!!
 A farmer or a fisherman’s friend, the gamcha accompanies him from morning to night. Right from the time he wakes up and has his cuppa the gamcha is snuggly held on his able shoulders. He starts his day with the gamcha tied as a turban and walks towards the field. He sweats and toils in his little patch of land which only the gamcha is a testimony. After a few morsels of rice, Raghu opts for a princely siesta under the peepal tree after spreading out his gamcha as a little pillow to ease his spraining neck.  
Iam sad to say that the gamcha is on it’s way to exit with an array of colourful towels as competition.
There should be an andolan to preserve and conserve the gamcha culture of Kolkata!!

Ekla cholo, ekla cholo…gamcha porey ekla cholo…….

Kolkata Phuchka

A guide to Kolkata Phuchka; all you wanted to know
Ooh Kolkata !! Ruposhi Kolkata !!
     Kolkata has so much to offer to every single person who sets foot on this land. When it comes to food, Kolkata can take you through the best culinary journey. Street food, food on the move, world cuisine in localised flavours(ever had Chinese noodles cooked the bangaali way?)food from the royal kitchen, sweet meat and what not. For today’s menu, I have got stuck on the shorbopriyo Phuchka. Never have my north indian friends taken pride in their gol gappas as we bongs take pride in our phuchkas. Puchkas are our legacy, tamarind water mixed with secret spices run in our veins since generations. Every Jamai babu needs to qualify by gulping down certain number of phuchkas before we hand over our daughter’s hand, as our daughter is a pro at devouring a score of phuchkas in no time.
    Phuchka also known as pani puri, pakodi or gol gappas in other regions of our diverse nation has a very strong presence in every Bengali galli. A Kolkata galli is incomplete without the omnipresent Phuchka wala with his wicker stand and a huge basket of phuchka wrapped in a red cloth (no no that’s not the red loin cloth which a few people from a certain state in east take pride in). Lokkhon da, Kelo da, Batul da, Montu, their cousins along with his other family members have become famous nationwide selling the humble Phuchka. So have places, like Garia Bata, Vivekananda park, Dakshinapan, New market, Vardaan market and many more have comfortably taken places in the Khao gali map of Kolkata.
Secret recipe for super tasty phuchkas
Many a didis, kakimas, boudis and jethimas tried dishing out this wonder at the comfort of their kitchen to gain popularity within the family, but there was something amiss. Wondering what the secret recipe is? Every snack that is popular has a secret recipe, which is kept under wraps in a digital locker and is passed on to the next generation once they come of age and show interest and passion in the trade( a la Coca cola)
   Our Kelo da too has his own secret recipe for making such yummilicious phuchkas which leaves you craving for more. Phuchkas taste best during monsoon or summer, ever wondered why? Well I have been following the entire process of phuchka making for a while now just to understand the secret recipe. Right from the time they mix the dough with their weary legs, yes you heard it right, legs. Because their hands are too busy checking watsapp, updating their FB profile and toggling for top 10 Bhojpuri hits. The first thing right after their early morning biological routine is to start diligently with kneading the phuchka dough. They are happy to include the munnas and munnis of the family to help them in their family run beeznej. Munna dances away to glory with happy feet on the dough to the latest track, “Tadpe la mor chadjal jawaani kable lagan lagi….”. Soon after the dough is ready Kishan’s wife gulabo along with her mother in law, neighbour’s sister in law and the entire jing bang doles out a few hundred small balls, flattens them and fry them to a golden yellow over gossips on the new Bahu at home. All in a day’s work! Kelo da carries a tempo load of phuchka from Kishan’s house and sets up shop at the four point crossing of the para just under the light post which rarely lights up. After laying his wicker stand with the support of bricks and concrete which he stacks in one corner of the opposite shop, he pours gallons of the magic potion into the huge stainless steel drum. Kelo adds tamarind pulp, some finely chopped coriander leaves, slices of gondho lebu, beat lobon and a fishy looking brown masala powder( we donot add fish, we spare the phucka in Bengal). With all the dust and grime still stuck on Kelo from tip to toe, he happily dips his entire hand into the drum full of water to mix the concoction. In an attempt to reach the bottom of the container he rolls his sleeves and dips his hand till his arm pit hair is drenched with tamarind water. He uses his hand as a spoon to create a whirlwind of a concoction. In the sweltering heat, droplets of sweat roll over his temples and drip non-stop on the container while kelo happily creates the wonder. Ah, now I know the secret recipe, this was Kelo’r kirti….Kelo quickly wipes his hand in his dhoti which he wears every evening at work and prefers washing it only on Mondays, his off day. He attends to a customer who was asking for some change. He happily digs out a wad of note from some remote corner of his striped under pant and gets back to work churning the tamarind water. Did I mention that Kelo has recurrent cough? Occupational hazard must say. Due to his long hours of exposure to pollution and his hands mostly dipped in the drum full of sweet n sour water he is prone to cough and cold. One solitary corner of his dhoti does justice in keeping his nostrils fresh and clean, when there is the versatile dhoti why does one need a napkin. Kelo’s expert hands mashes potato, chick pea and other spices like a pro, his hand flies in the air with an occasional stir in the drum. Even before Kelo could finish preparing his cart load of goodies for the evening, a few boudis flock for Phuchkas. Boudis have to wait as Kelo would soon return after a short biological break.
Different shades of Phuchka
Wine would go red with envy getting to know the varieties of Phuchkas available in town. Vodka phuchka any one? Yes Phuchkas served with copious amount of your favourite vodka is served in many fine dine eateries served with great elan. The master blaster phucka walas, the gurus of the dynasty is found on Vivekananda road. The humble Dilip da serves and specialise in Doi Phuchka, Mishti phuchka, Dilip da has made it global with his ever innovative phuchkas which are packed by resident kolkatans and send to dear friends and relatives staying outstation.
Phuchka lovers
PYT of every Kolkata household are the prime and potential customers of Phuchkas. Mithu along with her friends on their way back home from school have to halt at Poltu’s for a couple of Phuchkas every day. This is a part of their daily routine which has been on from the time Mithu upgraded from the blue skirt and white shirt to a feminine Salwar kameez at school. Now Poltu even without asking, passes on a Phao(extra phuchka) to all her friends with a shy smile on his face. It is for all the Mithus and the Buris that Poltu has a two storeyed house, he sends both his children to an English medium school, got his paternal house repaired in his native place and got his younger sister married last year. It is a known fact that people have bought acres of land in their homeland by selling the humble Phuchkas in Kolkata. Biltu looks at his mom’s ever increasing tummy almost touching the Phuchka basket while he awaits his turn for a dry phuchka. Mom continues munching on the delicacy till she burps out a few droplets of sour water and indicates with her hands to Poltu to stop serving the wonder balls, while the rest is for Biltu. Titu and his group of friends are regulars at Poltu’s, since childhood. They are at the mercy of Poltu at the drop of a hat, be it their para’s win at the inter para football match or Titu’s friend Pota a backbencher, scoring the highest in maths. Poltu maintains a credit book for all the defaulters especially the para dadas who promise to clear the dues every month.
   Well the la-di-das are often seen surrounding the skinny phuchka wala at Vardaan market nibbling on the phuchkas with their latest Revlon stained red beaks. Aromas of Gucci, Elizabeth Arden and Nina Ricci mix up with the odour of sour tamarind and freshly cut coriander leaves and lime with a tinge of a stench from the nearby dustbin. An ideal ambience to taste the best phuchkas for many. In an attempt to save her freshly painted telons, Saakshi misses her first Phuchka which lands straight on her Tommy Hilfiger short dress gifted to her by her ex….. Sad!! Time to buy another one honey..Ritika smiles, “mujhey choto choto phuchka dena” so that she saves her heavily layered and coloured lips. Only 2 each and they are done…”pet bhar gaya..let’s go gals..” The Chauffer waits for his Madam in the “No parking area” till she runs towards her BMW least the traffic police sets a fine.
  The golden brown wonder gets richer
 Well to the envy of the Lokkhon da’s of Kolkata, Phuchkas have gone glocal. Seeing the popularity of the humble fried balls, many a fine dine restaurant and luxury hotels have included the golden wonder in their heavily ornamental menu card which was once restricted to world cuisines only. Ooh laa..laa…laa..Phuckas here are mentioned as, ‘round hollow puri, crispy fried with virgin olive oil and served with tamarind extract and exotic organic spices from the land of the east and low calorie mashed potato”. Served to perfection, pale brown tamarind water in crystal shot glasses with a phuchka neatly seated like a king above every glass waiting to be relished. While an immaculately dressed steward offers to prepare each phuchka with distinctive etiquette and hands it over to you with his silver tongs. You keep your silver spoon and fork aside only to hold the humble hollow puri with your fingers and land it on your tongue. In the bargain the tamarind juice spoil the spotless white napkin. The steward gives a dirty look and then offers to change it for an orange self-design napkin. Did it taste as good as it tasted last time at Potla da’s who sits with his Phuchka thela right adjacent to the Tolly nala? Iam sure it wasn’t half the taste, for Potla da has his own secret recipe.

 A die hard fan of Kolkata phuchka, I can have phuchka and churmur for breakfast, lunch and dinner with absolutely zero complaints….